Living in Naples: Misc Details

I'm sure you are sick of all my posts about Naples, but I'll just round it off with a couple miscellaneous details. 

Naples - a city of two million people in the city proper and 2.25 million including the surrounding area - is the third largest city in Italy and one of the most exciting cities in the country.  It is statistically the most densely populated of Italy’s major cities.  In 1995, the historic center of Naples was placed on the UNESCO World Heritage List as a city worthy of special preservation and one which “has retained the imprint of the successive cultures that emerged in Europe and the Mediterranean Basin – making it a unique site with a wealth of outstanding monuments.”  In addition, four other UNESCO World Heritage sites lay in the surrounding area (http://whc.unesco.org/en/list).  You will find that Naples has a personality of its own.  First impressions of the city can be chaotic & jarring, but you will see that the beauty of the city and its energetic inhabitants make it a great city to explore.

Internet:

Naples is not the most wired city in the world.  Internet cafes are virtually impossible to find.  There are some, however, around Piazza Gesù Nuovo (the University area) and Via Toledo.  

Phone Calls:

You can buy one of the many international phone cards, available in 5 or 10 euro denominations, sold in tabacchi shops, (tabacchi are closed on Sunday) and can be used on public telephones or cellular phones (which gives less talking time). Europa and Poker cards offer the best rates.

Some have opted to buy personal cellular phones.  It is possible to find a basic phone for between 50 and 100 euro, and they operate on a prepaid credit system.  There are four service providers: TIM, Omnitel (the two largest), Wind, and Blu.  Credit is available in different denominations, depending on the provider, but all charge a service fee for recharging (Omintel, for example, sells 10 euro cards that give 8 euro worth of credit).  Incoming calls to cellular phones are free (except when you are roaming outside of the country).  Credit is available at tabacchonists or cellular phone stores.

Dry Cleaners:

For those items that you need dry-cleaned, there are a few places near my apartment that I have found to be nice establishments. 

Lavanderia Russella:

 Via G. Bruno, Napoli

(081)683409

Go through the mercatino and walk down the street toward the train station.  This store is across the street from the middle bus stop on Via G. Bruno.   The owners are good, efficient and friendly, and there have been no complaints about this shop.  In general, it takes about 3 days for clothes to be finished at this dry-cleaners.

Lavanderia Capri:

Off of Piazza San Nazaro

Safety and Security

Perhaps the most infamous aspect of Naples are the alleged robberies and thefts that take place among the streets and on the buses.  While it is important to remain vigilant, thefts can be avoided if you are careful with your belongings.  Don’t worry too much about the possibility of getting robbed, but always be aware that it can happen.  Don’t wave your wallet around and carry too much money or identification on you.  Try to carry your money in pockets as well as your wallet. Handbags are best held tightly under one arm, and if possible, the strap should cross your body.

The greatest danger you face is from traffic, in particular the thousands of motor scooters dodging in and out of traffic.  Remember that Naples has a population density twice that of New York City (4,100 inhabitants per square kilometer) and be patient.

Guide Books:

Time Out Naples is an excellent source of information about the city. It includes essays on the history of Naples, as well as hot topics in the city today. It also provides a detailed listing of restaurants, museums, buses, internet cafes, and gyms, as well as maps of the city, it’s surroundings and the metro system.

The Blue Guide for Southern Italy is an excellent guidebook to archeological sites and museums.  Interns with a good reading knowledge of Italian will appreciate the (green) guides put out by the Touring Club Italiano, which are readily available.

Naples is such a gem, you must make a point to go there!

 

Living in Naples: Shopping

Besides their food, Italians are also famous for their fashion. When I wasn;t busy taste testing my way around Naples, I did some serious shopping. There are two good markets that you can go to during the week. There is the mercatino in Fuorigrotta which is very close to the Cumana railroad station, and there is the Posillipo market that is on the road to Parco Vigiliano.

Posilipo Market: 

This market has the best clothes in the area for the best prices.  It is large, stretching the entire length of the street, however, it only occurs on Thursdays.  If you can ask for the morning off it is definitely worth the trip.

Fuorigrotta Market:

This market is open every day except Sundays.  You can get clothes, food, household items and more at this market.  Not only is this an outdoor market, but there also is a part that is in the building that the outdoor part surrounds.  The easiest way to get there is to take the C19, C9, or 152 bus lines and stop a few stops after the tunnel.  Then walk to the Cumana station and ask where the Mercatino is.

Shoe Alley: 

While perhaps not as easily accessible as the Posillipo and Fuorigrotta markets, Shoe Alley offers more variety at better prices.  It is in Poggioreale, near the prison.  Many people consider this one of the best markets in Naples.  It is open Friday, Sunday, and Monday morning.  It is better to get there in the mornings because otherwise it is either too crowded or all of the good deals are gone.

Other good places to shop:

Via Toledo: 

In the heart of Naples, near the Piazza Plebiscito, Teatro San Carlo, and Galleria Umberto, Via Toledo is one of the best shopping streets in Naples.  It is within walking distance to the consulate, but more easily accessible by taking the R3 bus line.  While the stores on this street can be very expensive, it is often worth a trip there to window shop or for the atmosphere.    There are also some nice bars along the street and the Scimmia gelateria in Piazza Carità is considered the best in Naples.

Vomero:

Vomero, a part of town located up on the hill above Mergellina is almost like another town.  You can get there using many different routes.  The Funicolare runs from Piazza Amedeo, about a 15 minute walk from the consulate, to Vomero.  Or you can take the C31 from Capo Posilipo, the 181 from Fuorigrotta, or the C28 from Piazza Amedeo.  A good place to start is on Via Scarlatti, which is closed to traffic and provides a great place to walk around.  There are some great places to buy shoes and bags in this area.

Via Chiaia

Another great shopping street begins at Piazza Vittoria and ends at Via Toledo. This area has the expensive stores like Gucci and Prada, and also some of the best and most reasonable shops. A couple of areas to take particular note of are Piazza dei Martiri, which is a good place to get a coffee and rest for awhile. The bookstore Feltrinelli is on this street, too, which is a bookstore on par with our Borders or Barnes and Noble. 

 

What are your favorite Italian cities to shop in???

Living in Naples: Day Trips

I posted about a lot of my day trips along the way this summer, but I thought it might be helpful to put some day trip options together in one spot. I included links for the post I've done on the places I have gone, but of course I did not make it everywhere!

Pompeii, Vesuvius, and Herculaneum:

The famed city of Pompeii, destroyed by the eruption of Mt. Vesuvius in 79 A.D., is only a quick train ride from Naples.  Tickets cost around €10, and include a brief guide book of the archaeological site.  There are automated guides available as well.  Take the Circumvesuviana in the direction of Sorrento to the Pompei Scavi station (follow the mass of tourists).  The modern city of Pompei has just one “i,” the ancient city – two i’s.  The ancient city is now at the center of the modern city.

Mt. Vesuvius, the impressive mountain that overshadows the entire Bay of Naples, is the only active volcano on the mainland of Europe.  The volcano is still active despite its calm appearance, and last erupted in 1944.  It is possible to climb to the large crater atop, which provides amazing views of the area.  Take the Circumvesuviana to the Torre del Greco station, where there is a bus service to the peak.

Herculaneum is a smaller archaeological site, and excavations continue to this day.  This town was devastated as well by the 79 A.D. eruption of Mt. Vesuvius but this town was sealed under many feet of quickly flowing mud and ash, unlike Pompeii, it did not burn before being entombed so many buildings are very well preserved.  Herculaneum was a smaller, but richer settlement than Pompeii and was more like an ancient retirement community.  The site is easily accessible, and is said by many to be as impressive as Pompeii.  Take the Circumvesuviana to the Ercolano station.  There is also a noteworthy “virtual” museum in Ercolano, which shows you what life would have been like in Roman times at all of the archaeological sites in Campania.

The Islands:

The Bay of Naples features three famous islands, Capri, Ischia, and Procida.  They can be crowded on summer weekends, are a bit expensive, as they cater to high-end tourists.  They are close enough, however, for day trips.  All three islands feature magnificent beaches, and both Capri and Ischia provide hiking opportunities and breathtaking views.

Ferries and hydrofoils leave from Molo Beverello, in the center of town near Piazza Municipio, for the three islands.  Hydrofoils leave from the Mergellina port for Ischia and in the summer also to Capri.  Schedules are available in Il Mattino and other local newspapers, and travel time is anywhere from 40 minutes to 1 hour 20 minutes.  Tickets cost from €12 to €18 each way, depending on the boat.

Sorrento:

Sorrento offers a nice break from the chaotic environment of Naples.  It is a resort town, complete with shops, restaurants, and hotels.  There are some beaches as well, but they are small and rocky.  Sorrento is easily accessible, as it is the terminus of the Circumvesuviana railroad and the journey time is about 1 hour and 15 minutes.  Train schedules are also available in Il Mattino.  The town has a youth hostel, and is a great base for exploring the nearby Amalfi Coast.  Sorrento is also accessible by aliscafo (from Molo Beverello) in approximately half an hour.

Positano and the Amalfi Coast:

The Amalfi Coast is one of the most breathtaking stretches of coastline in all of Europe.  The Amalfi Drive, the road which links Sorrento with Positano and Amalfi, features hairpin curves and amazing views.  Positano is a nice resort town, with nice beaches, good seafood restaurants, and hotels and pensioni.  The town is in the shape of a pyramid, and the hike down to the port area and the beaches is long but enjoyable.  The area can also be expensive, as it is a wealthy resort.  Buses connect Sorrento with the coast, and there are also hydrofoils that connect the area with Naples. The easiest way to here is via the Metrò de Mare, which runs from April to September.  Boats call at Beverello.  They stop at Sorrento and points beyond Salerno.

Campi Flegrei:

This area west of the city is mainly suburban, but features some nice seaside towns and archaeological sites.  Pozzuoli offers a nice respite from Naples, as it is close by but retains a small town atmosphere.  Pozzuoli also features a port, from where boats depart for Ischia and Procida.  The town is the terminus of the Metropolitana line 2, and is also served by the Cumana railroad.

Further along the coast, there are decent sandy beaches that can be crowded on weekends.  Capo Miseno offers a nice large stretch of beaches, and is accessible via the Cumana railroad to the Lucrino station and a SEPSA bus.  The area is perfect for times when Naples becomes a bit overwhelming.

Caserta:

This is the capital of a rather large inland province.  The trains leave regularly from the Stazione Centrale and are very reasonable.  It offers a lot of things to do on the weekends and you can also visit “the Reggia” palace – the largest palace of the 18^th century Kings of Naples and the Two Sicilies.  This palace is extensive and it was built by the Bourbon family which at the time were the rulers of southern Italy.  The gardens are enormous and well worth visiting in nice weather.  The apartments occasionally host temporary exhibitions but on any regular visit you can view the lavishly decorated palace interiors, inlaid floors, gilded furniture. 

While you’re in Caserta, if you have time, you can also take a trip up to the mountain, to Casertavecchia.  It is the old medieval town that was the original city of Caserta before its population outgrew the location.  If you go up on a good day, the view is truly incredible.  Some people say that you can see all the way to the bay of Naples.  But, even on cloudy days, this little town is a great place to walk around in and to get a great lunch.

Paestum:

If you like Greek ruins, but don’t have enough cash to venture over to the Greek Isles during your time here, then Paestum is for you!  These are some of the best-preserved Greek ruins in all of Italy.  And, because Paestum is not as near to Naples as Pompei and Ercolano, it is not overrun with tourists like the others are.  An overall two thumbs up experience, which is very nice and not as expensive.  Don’t miss the museum, which houses the famous sarcophagus depicting a diver [the Tomb of the Diver], one of the most remarkable extant examples of Greek painting.

The train from Napoli Centrale serves Paestum directly in just under an hour and a half.  The excavations and museums are closed on Mondays and the excavations close two hours before sunset.            

What are your thoughts on day trips? Do you like getting little tastes of places or do you prefer to wait until you can spend a significant amount of time somewhere?

Sorrento

I love love lovvvvve Sorrento.

While it is definitely feasible to make a day trip to Sorrento from Naples, we made it our home base for a weekend while we explored the Amalfi Coast. We found a B & B, took the morning train on Saturday, got settled in, and headed out to explore the coast. We came back in time for a delicious dinner at a small restaurant in the town center (a recommendation from the B & B owner), walked around, did a little more than window shopping and then crashed hard.

In the morning we started with some cappuccinos and then headed down to the beach. Sorrento is so clean, so calm, and so absolutely beautiful. I highly recommend it as a resting spot if you are looking to explore the Amalfi coast and the island of Capri.

Here is a look through our whirlwind visit.

Have you been to Italy? What is your favorite city?

Thanks for stopping by!

The Look for Less: Quilted Vest

I love fall fashion. It is my favorite time of year, and I love the style that accompanies it... a little cozy chic. One of my favorite fall staples is a quilted vest. I have a serious obsession with my excursion vest from j crew, that I desperately want in every color. I don't know if its my mild claustrophobia that makes me appreciate the arm freedom, but I choose vests over other outerwear as often as I can. Obviously I can't afford quilted vests in every color, so I scowered the internet for vests across all price ranges. Here are some of my faves....

1. $1298 - Ralph Lauren 

2. $598 - DKNY

3. $258 - Eileen Fisher

4. $130 - Gerry Webber

5. $120 - J Crew

6. $59 - GAP

7. $48 - Liz Claiborne

8. $45 - KC Collection

9. $37 - Style & Co.

10. $32 - Old Navy

What do you guys think? Vests - yay or nay?? Splurge or save??

Thanks for stopping by!

Naples Guide to Gelato

On Friday, I gave you a guide to pizza in Naples, but I wanted to also highlight the other love of my Italian-life: Gelato. To make sure you make the most of your gelato consumption in Naples, here is a little guide.

How can you tell if certain gelato is top-notch? Here are a few hints:

1. If it is labeled as “Produzione propia” or “produzione artigianale,” it means the gelato is made on site or handmade.

2. If the gelato comes in a prepared plastic tin, there is a chance the gelato is not top quality because it may be mass produced.

3. The gelato should have natural colors: banana should be brown, pistacchio should be grey, lemon should be white, etc.

4. Gelato flavors should correspond with the seasons. For example, during the summer, gelato flavors should be summer fruits (berries, plums, melons, apricots, peaches)

5. Great gelato typically comes from shops that solely specialize in making gelato. There are a few exceptions though (see Chalet da Ciro, Gran Bar Riviera, Gran Caffe Gambrinus, and Remy Gelo).

Here are some of the most popular options in Naples:

1. Bilancione Gelateria

Via Posillipo , 238

The favorite of the Consulate staff, Bilancione is a gelateria to remember.  Located in Posillipo, this gelateria gives a great view of the Bay of Naples.  It is a small but very busy shop with over 20 flavors to choose from.  A must is the “bacio” cone— a frozen cone covered with chocolate and hazelnuts.

2. Casa Infante

Via Toledo

This gelateria is right across from the Galleria Umberto on Via Toledo.  It’s the perfect place to go when out shopping to stop and have refreshing, creamy gelato.  Not only is it a favorite of visitors to Naples, but locals appreciate its originality and fresh quality as well.  It is always busy but worth the wait— a squirt of chocolate is added to the bottom of every cone free of charge!

3. Chalet da Ciro

Via Caracciolo

Founded in 1952, the art of gelato making and Neapolitan coffee has been passed down for two generations at this seafront gelateria.  A mixture of ingredients are tested daily  to make the most original recipes for creating delicious gelato, pastries, and coffee.  The gelateria works with restaurant Ciro a Mergellina, located next door, to create an enjoyable environment with great food in Posillipo. We would make a weekly trip here for "Gelato Giovadi" or "Ice Cream Thursdays".... and yes...that is something we made up to justify work day excursions for ice cream.

4. Fantasia Gelati

Via Francesco Cilea, 80

Rated as one of the favorites by test subjects, this gelateria draws in shoppers on Via Toledo with its colorful sign and window displays.  Prices are very reasonable due to the large amount of gelato that is given for each serving.  The specialty?  Fruit year around!

5. Gelateria della Scimmia

Piazzetta Nilo, 4

Heralded as the second oldest gelateria in Napoli.  It sets the standards high for its competition.  Prices are set accordingly, across the city,  to match this famous shop.  All the ingredients are of the  highest quality but the prices are very reasonable.  The creaminess of each flavor is due to the deliciously perfect  combination of milk, eggs, sugar, and whip cream.

6. Gelateria Otranto

Vico Vetriera, 12

This gelateria has provided excellent gelato since 1975 on the hills of Vomero.  It is notorious for using natural ingredients and having fair prices.  The recipe for this savory gelato has been kept secret in the Otranto family for almost 40 years.  But the longevity of the shop does not stop them from acquiring the best machines on the market to make delicious homemade gelato.

8. Gran Bar Riviera

Riviera di Chiaia, 181

One of the few gelaterie to be open 24/7 and it is close to the Consulate on Piazza Amedeo.  While most local gelaterie are smaller and dedicated to making solely gelato, this gelateria has two large rooms for ordering gelato, pastries, and café.  It also has an outside seating area where you can enjoy one of the highly recommended tarts or gelato while watching the Napolitani go about their daily business.

6. Gran Caffé Gambrinus

Via Chiaia, 1

The most famous café in all of Naples, Gambrinus has provided delicious desserts and coffee since 1860.  It is the most expensive gelateria on this list but quite worth the cost.  It has the perfect view of Via Toledo, Galleria Umberto, the San Carlo theater, Palazzo Reale, and Piazza del Plebiscito.  Writers like Oscar Wilde and Ernest Hemmingway have found sanctuary under its roof.  Its history, architecture, location, and food make it an absolute must for visitors to Naples.

9. Polo Nord

Via Pietro Colletta 41/43

Near the famous Da Michele pizzeria in the Historical Center, Polo Nord is the oldest gelateria in Naples.  It is very convenient for those visiting Spaccanapoli and the Duomo especially during hot summer days when gelato is a must.  For chocolate lovers, try their specialty, ChocoPerugia, that is made of 70% rich dark chocolate.

10. Remy Gelo

Via F. Galiani, 29

This gelateria is located in the Mercatino delle Torretta, two blocks from the Consulate.  All the gelato is gluten-free, does not have eggs, and contains vegetable fiber pro-biotic nutrients.  There are many flavors to choose from that are all creamy and rich.  If lactose intolerant, Remy Gelo offers soy gelato and sorbet. Being right across the street from my apartment, it's safe to say we got well acquainted. 

 

*** Another recommendation: Most Italians like to cap off their lunches with an espresso, and I am always on board for a mid-day caffeine jolt, but in the hot summer months my go to caffeinated afternoon treat was cafe del nonno. Essentially coffee ice cream. So essentially heaven. 

Cafe Gramsci, which I mentioned here, had my favorite cafe del nonno in town.

What is your favorite gelato flavor??

Thanks for visiting my little blog!